Cold pierces the air. The plan is to take a water taxi to Aialik Bay and spend two days exploring the coves and glaciers by kayak. The sun rises as the boat departs Miller’s Landing.
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First stop is Quicksand Cove. The beach is littered with salmon carcasses and gluttonous seagulls prowl the sky above. I like how my boots sound on the stones. Seals break the surface of the water to investigate.
A stream flows from the glacier above out to the cove, and it is saturated with weary salmon. Their hours are limited. It’s a visceral experience to see the fish so close to their end, yet they continue to vainly swim against the current. The remains of their cold-blooded comrades decorate the shore. In the distance a pair of black bears casually stroll out of the trees and snatch fish out of the water. They have no reason to hurry.
Thunder booms across the water on the approach to Holgate Glacier as chunks of ice the size of houses calve. A rock mound stands near the glacier providing a throne to witness the massive expanse of ice.
In the native language Aialik means “a special place.” This seems appropriate when confronted with the enormity of the glacier. It is a humbling experience to look upon something so immense, not just in the physical domain but temporally as well. The ice serves as a link to eons past, a study in scale beyond my comprehension. It feels otherworldly.
The mound of dirt on the left is evidence of the summer sun’s sculpting of the glacier: the gap was solid ice just three months prior.
© 2026 Ryan Harrison